Maison Margiela is a French fashion house founded by Belgian designer Martin Margiela in 1988. In the same year in Paris, Martin showed his debut collection.
Martin is considered a revolutionary in the fashion industry – at the peak of his career, the designer preferred anonymity (both his team and models), focusing all attention on clothes. He was also one of the first to use deconstruction and upcycling techniques, creating collections from items found in second-hand and vintage stores
About Fall-Winter 2020 Collection
“Fashion is my lover. She mocks me, devours me, pushes me to strive for perfection – to create, breathe, live.” -John Galliano
The brand’s creative director, John Galliano, unveiled the new Reclica line at Paris Fashion Week. The line includes converted archival items from the Replica Maison Margiela line, which was produced during the time of the founder of the house, Martin Margiela.
The design team looked for archival items in vintage stores and collectors and then converted them into clothes for the new collection. In the name, Galliano combined the words recycle (recycling) and replica (copy) – which became a reference to the original collection of Maison Margiela.
All things from it were decorated with large tags with the name of the line. It is noted that Reclica Maison Margiela will be released regularly.
Models walked to the catwalk in raincoats, coats, suits, and dresses, complemented by fabric inserts, deconstructed elements, chunky stitching, with bags wrapped in film and Reebok Instapump Fury tabi sneakers. The faces of some models were hidden with masks and veils – this is also a reference to Martin Margiela, who often hid faces in this way.
John Galliano believes: gender neutrality in fashion goes back to the freedom of expression and the destruction of conformist notions of masculinity and femininity. Without these social prejudices, we can freely express ourselves, discover new things, and grow.
4 Facts About The Brand's Magic
Here are some interesting facts behind the extravagant brand and its mysterious creator.
White color in the brand’s DNA appeared, like everything ingenious, simple. It’s all to blame for the limited budgets of the newly made House and a great desire to bring the concept to a common denominator.
As for the label on things, it also does not deviate from the “white” rule. Initially, it was even a white tag without any identification marks. Subsequently, numbers from 0 to 23 were applied to it, denoting certain lines: 0 – clothes from the Artisanal line recycled from vintage items, 4 and 14 – basic collections, 8 – glasses, 11 – accessories, 12 – jewelry, 22 – shoes.
Nowadays, working with vintage fabrics and bringing new life into old things found at flea markets and second-hand shops is no surprise – every second young designer does this, and some even receive prestigious fashion awards for their work. But three decades ago, the fashion public had a completely different attitude towards “old”. Martin Margiela challenged everyone here too.
The concept of brand depersonalization and its main idea, formulated by the master himself, seem to be fully philosophical: “I always wanted my name to be associated with the product that I produce, and not personally with my person”. Hence the tradition of not going out at the end of the show “bowing down”, not giving interviews, and finally leaving your brand without disclosing it. By the way, the same idea of depersonalization was often extended to models defiling at shows, whose faces were covered with fabric masks, long bangs, painted or real glasses, deliberately focusing attention on the clothes themselves.
The unique design shows a riot of the imagination of an extraordinary couturier who was at the origin of the modern fashion. Maison Margiela is known for amazing shoe models and here are some of the picks of the season.